Our days in Greece are numbered and we are torn. We want to stay - and we want to go home. Yesterday we visited a monastery and a nunnery in Meteora. Most of the mountains in Greece are covered with shrubbery or trees. But for miles before we reached Kalabaka, where we stayed overnight, we began seeing sheer walls of gray rock, devoid of vegetation. Towering thousands of feet into the air they are a rock climber's dream - or challenge. People are allowed to climb any of these pinnacles that are not inhabited. For on top of some of these huge monoliths perch monasteries, about as far away from earth and close to heaven as one can get. The barren walls were once completely covered by a huge lake, which water eventually found a way to the sea, leaving behind the scoured and cave-ridden walls eroded further by wind and rain to what we see today.
About the 11th century, the caves provided crude shelter for the first hermit monks seeking solitude. After a while they decided to build a place together. Considering the logistics, it makes sense that since all materials had to be brought up the mountain, they would build on top, as opposed to trying to carve out a suitable space on the face of the cliff. In early years before steps were created, the only way anything or any person visited this monastery of Vrolos was by being hoisted up in a net. I visited the room which houses the cable and the huge hook, nearly as thick as my wrist, that brings supplies to the top. The wooden turnstile for winding the cable is still there, though a motor driven winch now pulls a metal basket a couple hundred feet from an outcropping below. What stamina and determination these first monks had to build atop this cliff!!
Monasteries are no longer supported by government or rich philanthropists so must allow tourists and the sale of souvenirs as a means of income for their simple needs. To compensate for the invasion of their privacy, they are closed to the public one day a week in summer, two days a week in winter. Of course their main "church home" was off limits and it was a reminder to us visitors, when we heard the chanting echo through some halls, of the real purpose of this aerie. Their gardens are beautiful and their chores must be many as the number of monks has decreased over the years. The paintings on the walls of the church and the chapel tell the whole story of Christianity from the Annunciation to the martyrdom of the saints. These paintings are rich in color and decorated in gold. Absolutely no pictures are allowed in the monastery.
The views, caught between the tall spires, of the valley below compensated somewhat for the lack of pictures within. The bus stopped several times for photos on the way up and back. Even though the bus was able to drive up the mountain, the long stairway from the parking lot was a steep climb, and most of us were huffing when we reached the top. Anticipating that women must have their knees covered I wore long pants, but upon arrival learned women MUST wear skirts. The monastery, anticipating the needs of unprepared tourists, provides wrap-around skirts to be worn over shorts or pants by all women not wearing skirts already, AND for all men who are not wearing long pants!! A real surprise for the guys in shorts.
From the heights of Meteora we had a long bus ride back to Athens. Today is our last day; some of us are still seeking souvenirs; some of us are packing and re-packing, hoping we do not have to jettison too many things to get our new purchases in our suitcases. I have made few purchases myself, simply one small pendant for which I will buy a chain when I get home. My best souvenirs are the experiences I have had on our trip. This blog is an attempt to record some of them while they are fresh in my mind. We leave early tomorrow morning, so this is likely my last blog from Greece. I will have much more to share when I see you.
Wednesday, June 25, 2014
Monday, June 23, 2014
Vergina and Philip's Tomb
We left Thessaloniki this morning after a quick visit to the fortress at the Top of the Hill overlooking the large and beautiful harbor. We did not have to climb this time; the bus took us up there. It was a very difficult drive for the bus driver and when he had to maneuver the large bus at an angle through a large arch, we all looked out our windows. Only 3 inches between bus and stone on each side; we spontaneously applauded his successful completion.
Then we were off to Vergina, the original capitol of Thessaly, before it was moved to Pella. Here Philip II was assasinated on the day of his daughter's wedding. His son, Alexander (the Great) gave him a funeral appropriate for a king. Many centuries later when his tomb was unearthed the government created a earthern hill to enclose his tomb and to serve also as a museum for the artifacts found in his tomb and that of his wife (which one is not known). This museum is very dark in order to preserve the colors that the stone still retains. I had some trouble navigating and seeing any of the placards explaining the contents of the lighted cases. But I had no trouble seeing the glorious golden wreaths and the gilded burial chests into which the bones and remains after cremation were put. So much gold and so beautifully restored, so intricately woven.
From there we drove several hours to Kalambaka, which sits at the foot of the mountain upon which is perched the monastery of Meteora. Tomorrow we will drive most of the way up to it and climb the rest of the way.
The thing about Thessaloniki that delighted me the most and what I had not expected was the wide plains around it and as we moved further into the interior of the country, we would have to go up, up, up the mountain and then down the other side. Going in each direction it was interesting to see the changes in farming. Between the mountain ridges would be valley floors or uplands upon which there were great fields of wheat, orchards, grapevines, beans, and other things I could not identify from the bus. But in this area for the first time I saw modern tractors, rakes, discs, reapers, sprayers and long buildings that look like they must house animals of some kind, though I saw only one herd of cows. I did see a horse occasionally, usually just outside a farmhouse, more for pleasure than work.
This computer is timed to go off at the end of 30 minutes so I'll not risk losing what I have already written and stop now. We will be back in Athens on Wednesday. More then.
Then we were off to Vergina, the original capitol of Thessaly, before it was moved to Pella. Here Philip II was assasinated on the day of his daughter's wedding. His son, Alexander (the Great) gave him a funeral appropriate for a king. Many centuries later when his tomb was unearthed the government created a earthern hill to enclose his tomb and to serve also as a museum for the artifacts found in his tomb and that of his wife (which one is not known). This museum is very dark in order to preserve the colors that the stone still retains. I had some trouble navigating and seeing any of the placards explaining the contents of the lighted cases. But I had no trouble seeing the glorious golden wreaths and the gilded burial chests into which the bones and remains after cremation were put. So much gold and so beautifully restored, so intricately woven.
From there we drove several hours to Kalambaka, which sits at the foot of the mountain upon which is perched the monastery of Meteora. Tomorrow we will drive most of the way up to it and climb the rest of the way.
The thing about Thessaloniki that delighted me the most and what I had not expected was the wide plains around it and as we moved further into the interior of the country, we would have to go up, up, up the mountain and then down the other side. Going in each direction it was interesting to see the changes in farming. Between the mountain ridges would be valley floors or uplands upon which there were great fields of wheat, orchards, grapevines, beans, and other things I could not identify from the bus. But in this area for the first time I saw modern tractors, rakes, discs, reapers, sprayers and long buildings that look like they must house animals of some kind, though I saw only one herd of cows. I did see a horse occasionally, usually just outside a farmhouse, more for pleasure than work.
This computer is timed to go off at the end of 30 minutes so I'll not risk losing what I have already written and stop now. We will be back in Athens on Wednesday. More then.
Sunday, June 22, 2014
Internet Cafes not so Easy to Find
It has taken me nearly two hours to find this internet cafe. There are not so many now since nearly everyone accesses the internet on their smartphones, witness nearly all the students on this trip. But I kept asking directions and each succeeding one was more specific and suddenly there through the window I saw computers! Chalk one up for persistence.
We have done so much since I wrote last. The first big excursion was to Delphi, site of the Temple of Apollo and the Oracle of Delphi. It seemed like we were at the top of the world and indeed we were not on the very tallest peak in Greece, but nearly so. We were at 5000 feet and the village of Delphi has put up more modern buildings to house the people who come for the ski resort about 15 kilometers away, which they tell us is at 6000 feet. The sacred worship place at Delphi was discovered in the early 1900s and when the excavators found inscriptions related to Delphi, they realized what a find they had, but in order to excavate the large area, they had to literally move the people who lived atop the completely covered ruins to an adjacent hillside, where now exists the village of Delphi, named after the site.
The site itself in built into the side of Mt. Parnassos, in terraced levels, so one is always climbing up. There were many inscriptions which survived so we know that people from all over the world, as it was known then, came to Delphi to pay tribute at the Temple of Apollo, and to seek prophecy from the Oracle of Delphi. She sat in the grand Temple on a tripod stool to receive her petitioners and offer her pronouncements. There were Treasury buildings to collect the tributes, grand covered stoas or covered walkways, but one is mesmerized by the ruins of the Temple. It is so huge. The largest of the pillars that remain standing, must be 40 feet high. We know from writings of travelers who visited before it was destroyed that a great statue of a man on a horse, probably gilded and decorated stood atop the pillar. All items of value have long since been plundered over the years since the 5th century BC and one of the tallest pillars, that once held a tripod, was removed and taken to Constantinople and still stands there to this day. Above the Temple of Apollo is a good sized amphitheater cut into the mountainside where people listened to various orators. I managed to make it to a wall above the amphitheater where I had a tremendous view of the peaks across the valley below and the morning sun lighting their eastern slopes.
Leaving Delphi, we went through Arachoba, through streets so narrow, again we marveled at the skill of the bus driver navigating our huge bus. I wish we had stopped in Arachoba; I saw some wonderful rugs for sale there. Shortly we were at the top of the mountain and going down the serpentine roads to the valley below and continuing our way north towards Thessaloniki. Up to this time, any fields of wheat or produce were small, 5-10 acres. So I was surprised when we began to come across large plains between the peaks and finally to plains so large the peaks receded in the distance. Here the fields were very large, 30-50 acres. I could not tell all that was being grown but wheat and or oats and beans, for sure. They baled their hay in small bales, wrapped once around with plastic and about one third the size of the bales of US farmers. But of course no need for more wrapping as the climate is moderate. I never saw any cows and all of Greece imports its milk, so I expect that the hay is sold, but I wonder where. I had many agricultural questions but this was an archeological study, not an agricultural one, so I had little opportunity to satisfy my curiosity. I will just have to come back sometime and talk to the farmers in the villages. :-)
More tomorrow - if I can find this place again, and if I have time. Not sure what time, but we leave Thessaloniki tomorrow and go to Vergina.
We have done so much since I wrote last. The first big excursion was to Delphi, site of the Temple of Apollo and the Oracle of Delphi. It seemed like we were at the top of the world and indeed we were not on the very tallest peak in Greece, but nearly so. We were at 5000 feet and the village of Delphi has put up more modern buildings to house the people who come for the ski resort about 15 kilometers away, which they tell us is at 6000 feet. The sacred worship place at Delphi was discovered in the early 1900s and when the excavators found inscriptions related to Delphi, they realized what a find they had, but in order to excavate the large area, they had to literally move the people who lived atop the completely covered ruins to an adjacent hillside, where now exists the village of Delphi, named after the site.
The site itself in built into the side of Mt. Parnassos, in terraced levels, so one is always climbing up. There were many inscriptions which survived so we know that people from all over the world, as it was known then, came to Delphi to pay tribute at the Temple of Apollo, and to seek prophecy from the Oracle of Delphi. She sat in the grand Temple on a tripod stool to receive her petitioners and offer her pronouncements. There were Treasury buildings to collect the tributes, grand covered stoas or covered walkways, but one is mesmerized by the ruins of the Temple. It is so huge. The largest of the pillars that remain standing, must be 40 feet high. We know from writings of travelers who visited before it was destroyed that a great statue of a man on a horse, probably gilded and decorated stood atop the pillar. All items of value have long since been plundered over the years since the 5th century BC and one of the tallest pillars, that once held a tripod, was removed and taken to Constantinople and still stands there to this day. Above the Temple of Apollo is a good sized amphitheater cut into the mountainside where people listened to various orators. I managed to make it to a wall above the amphitheater where I had a tremendous view of the peaks across the valley below and the morning sun lighting their eastern slopes.
Leaving Delphi, we went through Arachoba, through streets so narrow, again we marveled at the skill of the bus driver navigating our huge bus. I wish we had stopped in Arachoba; I saw some wonderful rugs for sale there. Shortly we were at the top of the mountain and going down the serpentine roads to the valley below and continuing our way north towards Thessaloniki. Up to this time, any fields of wheat or produce were small, 5-10 acres. So I was surprised when we began to come across large plains between the peaks and finally to plains so large the peaks receded in the distance. Here the fields were very large, 30-50 acres. I could not tell all that was being grown but wheat and or oats and beans, for sure. They baled their hay in small bales, wrapped once around with plastic and about one third the size of the bales of US farmers. But of course no need for more wrapping as the climate is moderate. I never saw any cows and all of Greece imports its milk, so I expect that the hay is sold, but I wonder where. I had many agricultural questions but this was an archeological study, not an agricultural one, so I had little opportunity to satisfy my curiosity. I will just have to come back sometime and talk to the farmers in the villages. :-)
More tomorrow - if I can find this place again, and if I have time. Not sure what time, but we leave Thessaloniki tomorrow and go to Vergina.
Wednesday, June 18, 2014
A Wonderful Day!
How do I begin to tell you about yesterday? Start at the beginning I guess. In the morning Dr. Dewey (Art) and his Greek teacher friend, Nikos, and I went to the monastery in Daphni. This monastery is one of two sites in Greece renowned for its mosaics. Unfortunately it was badly damaged by earthquake within the last ten years and they are in the process of repairing it. Because of all the scaffolding we were allowed to climb only part way up to see them but they showed us first a video of the mosaics as they were. I was amazed, and when we DID climb the stairs and I saw the mosaic of Jesus' birth complete with angel, babe in the manger, Joseph and Mary and a cow and a donkey looking on, it was so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. If I ever get to Athens again I will definitely return to Daphni. They hope to have the work finished in two years. There must be at least 15 huge mosaics on the walls and ceiling of this monastery.
Outside Nikos showed us the mouralou (sp?) tree that bears purple and white berries similar to our blackberries but sweeter. This is also the tree whose leaves silkworms eat and the tree and the worm eggs were brought from China to start the silk industry here for trade. The leaves of the next tree over (don't know the name) has a pungent but not unpleasant smell and is used by cooks as a natural insect repellent for their food.
Then we took a bus back to Athens central for Nikos to take us to a traditional taverna (opos tragmata echie = as things were). If you didn't know it was there, you'd walk right by. Seeing the cellar doors open you might assume a delivery was being made, but if you went down the steps (watch your head!) you find yourself in a wine cellar/taverna. Huge barrels of wine line one wall and 8 - 10 tables are set up in the rest of the cellar. Things are simple. Wine from a barrel comes with the meal without asking. White paper goes on the table. Bowls of whatever you order are brought; no plates, just fork and spoon for each person - one eats from the communal bowls. Wonderful bread is brought in half loaves and you break off what you want. Use the bread to sop up the juices - no bread spread needed. We ordered Greek salad, a cooked vegetable melage and had only one choice, which of two fish we wanted. We chose "gropa" a small grilled fish that just fell away from its bones. We demolished it all. No napkins. They just take the dishes and utensils and wrap all else up in the paper "tablecloth" and the table is ready for the next customer. This family has had this place since 1880.
Next Nikos took us a few blocks to a small opening off the street barely large enough for a man to get through. It opened up into a space about 15 ft. wide by 60 ft. long and there we had Greek coffee. When we looked up, we could see very old ramshackle houses, no longer occupied, and even a rickety footbridge that went between the houses. Talk about atmosphere! There was even the typical long-legged, long-bodied Greek cat.
From there we walked back toward Omonia (tourist central) passing a large fish market, a "euro" store (Greek Dollar store) and shops that sold all kinds of household needs; pots and pans, spices kept in wooden cupboards to prevent them picking up street smells, rugs, housedresses. Nikos said his father walked a long ways (this was before the Metro) to shop there for the week because it is cheaper there.
We said goodbye to Nikos and met Kiki, our language teacher, who was in Greece with her family and talked with her for an hour. She was on her way to the dentist. Another American seeking out Greece's excellent health care. By the time we returned to the hotel I was happy to shed my clothes and cool off in my room.
In the evening I was invited to join Dr. Byrne and Dr. Dewey to go to dinner with their friend, George. We had a wonderful meal about 10:30 (pretty typical time for Greeks to go out) at a different tavera on a quiet residential street near Haidari and not far from the night clubs where the group went to see the Latin dancing.
After wine and more wonderful food, we took a cab back to the hotel. We all remarked that this particular cab driver obviously knew the city well. Without hesitation he chose back streets one after another and avoided the heavily trafficked main streets. I was tired. By this time it was 12:30. But what a great day!
Tonight the students return from Santorini and we will be on our way to Thessaloniki tomorrow.
Outside Nikos showed us the mouralou (sp?) tree that bears purple and white berries similar to our blackberries but sweeter. This is also the tree whose leaves silkworms eat and the tree and the worm eggs were brought from China to start the silk industry here for trade. The leaves of the next tree over (don't know the name) has a pungent but not unpleasant smell and is used by cooks as a natural insect repellent for their food.
Then we took a bus back to Athens central for Nikos to take us to a traditional taverna (opos tragmata echie = as things were). If you didn't know it was there, you'd walk right by. Seeing the cellar doors open you might assume a delivery was being made, but if you went down the steps (watch your head!) you find yourself in a wine cellar/taverna. Huge barrels of wine line one wall and 8 - 10 tables are set up in the rest of the cellar. Things are simple. Wine from a barrel comes with the meal without asking. White paper goes on the table. Bowls of whatever you order are brought; no plates, just fork and spoon for each person - one eats from the communal bowls. Wonderful bread is brought in half loaves and you break off what you want. Use the bread to sop up the juices - no bread spread needed. We ordered Greek salad, a cooked vegetable melage and had only one choice, which of two fish we wanted. We chose "gropa" a small grilled fish that just fell away from its bones. We demolished it all. No napkins. They just take the dishes and utensils and wrap all else up in the paper "tablecloth" and the table is ready for the next customer. This family has had this place since 1880.
Next Nikos took us a few blocks to a small opening off the street barely large enough for a man to get through. It opened up into a space about 15 ft. wide by 60 ft. long and there we had Greek coffee. When we looked up, we could see very old ramshackle houses, no longer occupied, and even a rickety footbridge that went between the houses. Talk about atmosphere! There was even the typical long-legged, long-bodied Greek cat.
From there we walked back toward Omonia (tourist central) passing a large fish market, a "euro" store (Greek Dollar store) and shops that sold all kinds of household needs; pots and pans, spices kept in wooden cupboards to prevent them picking up street smells, rugs, housedresses. Nikos said his father walked a long ways (this was before the Metro) to shop there for the week because it is cheaper there.
We said goodbye to Nikos and met Kiki, our language teacher, who was in Greece with her family and talked with her for an hour. She was on her way to the dentist. Another American seeking out Greece's excellent health care. By the time we returned to the hotel I was happy to shed my clothes and cool off in my room.
In the evening I was invited to join Dr. Byrne and Dr. Dewey to go to dinner with their friend, George. We had a wonderful meal about 10:30 (pretty typical time for Greeks to go out) at a different tavera on a quiet residential street near Haidari and not far from the night clubs where the group went to see the Latin dancing.
After wine and more wonderful food, we took a cab back to the hotel. We all remarked that this particular cab driver obviously knew the city well. Without hesitation he chose back streets one after another and avoided the heavily trafficked main streets. I was tired. By this time it was 12:30. But what a great day!
Tonight the students return from Santorini and we will be on our way to Thessaloniki tomorrow.
Monday, June 16, 2014
Visiting Friends in Haidari
Yesterday my friends in Haidari called to tell me Christos would pick me up from the hotel around noon time. Theodossia called me when he was nearby so I met him on the corner. It had been seven years since we had seen each other. We exclaimed that neither of us had changed that much and we went directly to Maria and Nikos' house where Maria, an excellent hostess, plied me with pastries, and cookies, and lemonade and then we all went out to eat. I was already full, but ordered salad. Christos and Nikos and Maria carried on a animated conversation and since I could not follow much of what they were saying, my plate got emptied first, so the chorus of "Faee, faee" (Eat, eat) to me interspersed the conversation. I notice that they did not eat much while they talked, so that is the secret to not gaining weight when visiting in Greece. Talk lots and eat little.
Theodossia, who teaches mathematics in the Lyceum, is still working, correcting final exams, so she was not available until later. Christos and I left for their place just before a heavy downpour. The streets were awash with water in many places and in one place Christos muttered in Greek "river" and then some allusion to "fish". He has quite a sense of humor. I wish that I could understand more Greek. But I must be able to impart more as Theodossia was surprised lwhen we arrived at their house, that Christos had learned as much information as he had from me.
Theodossia spent over an hour telling me about the program that she directs for teachers and students. A grant from the European Union provides the funds for teachers and high school students from each of eight EU countries to visit each other's countries and the students have a subject to research, i.e. immigration or discrimination. They interview their counterparts and/or subjects of their reseach. Theodossia has learned to video-tape them so at the end of each visit, she produces a memory book on her computer which goes out to each group who participated. Each student introduces themselves in English and all of the taped material has English subtitles where necessry. The arrangements for these trips are nearly all Theodossia's. She arranges for each student to stay at least one night with a family in the country being vsited. She also arranges hotels, meals, and allocates funds to her teacher counterparts in other countries. It is a huge undertaking. About 70 people in all. Countries involved include Greece, Italy, Latvia, Czech Republic, Poland, Romania, France and Turkey.
Then she and I went to a local plaka to (what else?) eat and talk some more. This morning I walked down Acropoleo street where I walked every morning when I was here in 2007. Not much has changed. The parrot is no longer evident with its loud squawk. Two new buses decorated with different colored and sized balls on white background make them look polka-dotted. The stairs to the small plaka above Basiliou street was nearly hidden by overgrown bushes. If you did not know it was there you would miss it, but once in front of the stairs, they were clear. Many city workers have been laid off so there are fewer people to collect trash, sweep streets and prune back shrubbery. But the Greeks love their trees and carefully tend those in their yards and there are flowers everywhere. I have to smell all the roses; they are so sweet. In the US, roses have very little aroma at all.
Tonight it is back to Athens. I was surprised to learn that the Metro has been extended nearly to Haidari, only 5 minutes away, they tell me. Previously I took the bus into the city or to the bank or to go shopping. So allegedly, the next time I come, I should be able to take the Metro all the way from the airport to Haidari. Wouldn't that be great!
Theodossia, who teaches mathematics in the Lyceum, is still working, correcting final exams, so she was not available until later. Christos and I left for their place just before a heavy downpour. The streets were awash with water in many places and in one place Christos muttered in Greek "river" and then some allusion to "fish". He has quite a sense of humor. I wish that I could understand more Greek. But I must be able to impart more as Theodossia was surprised lwhen we arrived at their house, that Christos had learned as much information as he had from me.
Theodossia spent over an hour telling me about the program that she directs for teachers and students. A grant from the European Union provides the funds for teachers and high school students from each of eight EU countries to visit each other's countries and the students have a subject to research, i.e. immigration or discrimination. They interview their counterparts and/or subjects of their reseach. Theodossia has learned to video-tape them so at the end of each visit, she produces a memory book on her computer which goes out to each group who participated. Each student introduces themselves in English and all of the taped material has English subtitles where necessry. The arrangements for these trips are nearly all Theodossia's. She arranges for each student to stay at least one night with a family in the country being vsited. She also arranges hotels, meals, and allocates funds to her teacher counterparts in other countries. It is a huge undertaking. About 70 people in all. Countries involved include Greece, Italy, Latvia, Czech Republic, Poland, Romania, France and Turkey.
Then she and I went to a local plaka to (what else?) eat and talk some more. This morning I walked down Acropoleo street where I walked every morning when I was here in 2007. Not much has changed. The parrot is no longer evident with its loud squawk. Two new buses decorated with different colored and sized balls on white background make them look polka-dotted. The stairs to the small plaka above Basiliou street was nearly hidden by overgrown bushes. If you did not know it was there you would miss it, but once in front of the stairs, they were clear. Many city workers have been laid off so there are fewer people to collect trash, sweep streets and prune back shrubbery. But the Greeks love their trees and carefully tend those in their yards and there are flowers everywhere. I have to smell all the roses; they are so sweet. In the US, roses have very little aroma at all.
Tonight it is back to Athens. I was surprised to learn that the Metro has been extended nearly to Haidari, only 5 minutes away, they tell me. Previously I took the bus into the city or to the bank or to go shopping. So allegedly, the next time I come, I should be able to take the Metro all the way from the airport to Haidari. Wouldn't that be great!
Saturday, June 14, 2014
Back in Athens
It was a five hour bus ride back to Athens, down off the mountain plateau to the coastal plains and along the northern shore of the Pelapponese, across the Loutraki-Corinth channel that cuts through the isthmus as a shortcut for medium sized boats, past the modern and beautiful cable bridge. The main roads, what we would call interstate, are in good condition, but streets in villages are narrow and we marvel at the skill of the bus drivers maneuvering through them.
Once in Athens the students started packing a few things for three days on Santorini island. I opted out of that side-trip as I had been there before and I wanted a few days to contact the Kostoulas family in Athens. So Dr. Dewey and I went out to buy track phones. We just missed the Wind shop closing - by 5 minutes. But he did not give up; having been in Athens several times in the past seven years, he thought he had seen one at another Metro stop and we found a small shop that was open, attended by a man from Bangladesh. We were able to get phones for half of what they would have cost at the bigger shops and had a good visit with the shopkeeper. This man sends money back to his family in Bangladesh and showed us pictures of his children and his brother.
Everyone is always pleased when we try out our modest Greek phrases. The hotel staff here at Candia is always happy to have us return. One of the students bought a large box of pastries and shared it with all the rest of us including the hotel staff - one way to be well-remembered!
Today I am looking forward to a visit with my friends here in Athens. Theodosia is a mathematics teacher in the high school and she also tutors students to help them pass the college exams. I am anxious to learn how the bad economy here in Greece has affected them; both Theodosia and Christos have government jobs.
Once in Athens the students started packing a few things for three days on Santorini island. I opted out of that side-trip as I had been there before and I wanted a few days to contact the Kostoulas family in Athens. So Dr. Dewey and I went out to buy track phones. We just missed the Wind shop closing - by 5 minutes. But he did not give up; having been in Athens several times in the past seven years, he thought he had seen one at another Metro stop and we found a small shop that was open, attended by a man from Bangladesh. We were able to get phones for half of what they would have cost at the bigger shops and had a good visit with the shopkeeper. This man sends money back to his family in Bangladesh and showed us pictures of his children and his brother.
Everyone is always pleased when we try out our modest Greek phrases. The hotel staff here at Candia is always happy to have us return. One of the students bought a large box of pastries and shared it with all the rest of us including the hotel staff - one way to be well-remembered!
Today I am looking forward to a visit with my friends here in Athens. Theodosia is a mathematics teacher in the high school and she also tutors students to help them pass the college exams. I am anxious to learn how the bad economy here in Greece has affected them; both Theodosia and Christos have government jobs.
Friday, June 13, 2014
Site of the Original Olympics
We are staying in the small town of Ancient Olympia, the site of the original Olympics, which started about 776 BC. The site was within a short walk from our hotel for which we were grateful as it is quite warm today. Our guide, Gabriella, was well informed and able to answer all questions. The site is large, containing ruins of the huge stadium, the Temple of Zeus, the wrestling arena, the workshop of Phidius (sp?) believed to be one of the sculptors who worked to specifications of those who sponsored his works, and great rows of stubs of columns testifying to the size and shape of huge buildings that once existed there.
In the arena, a few of the students who have been in track and field had to try out their stamina running the course. Then we went to the Museum which had wonderful statues and artifacts unearthed from the ruins. Like many of the Greek ruins one can see today, they were covered over with soil before being excavated.
I'm not sure when this site was excavated but when we were in Naphlos yesterday, the museum there had good pictures of the archeaologists, and I laughed when I saw the women wearing saddle shoes. That is all it took for me to know they were there in 1952-53, which was when I was in college, and I remember seeing then articles about students going on archeaological "digs" during the summer time.
This Hotel Neda in Ancient Olympia is very nice. The food is very good and there is a lovely pool and outdoor sitting area, where most of the students are at the moment, having been given free time this afternoon. Tomorrow we return to Athens and next we will be going north towards Thessalonica I expect.
I have enjoyed seeing the Pelapponese and the fertile farmland particularly along the lower plains near the water. Lots of olive trees. Gabriella says if one sees no olive trees that means, in that particular area, it must get cold enough to frost, otherwise olive trees grow everywhere in Greece. It has rained more on this trip than on all of my other visits combined. We have experienced short thunderstorms on several occasions. The local people tell us this much rain in June is unusual.
In the arena, a few of the students who have been in track and field had to try out their stamina running the course. Then we went to the Museum which had wonderful statues and artifacts unearthed from the ruins. Like many of the Greek ruins one can see today, they were covered over with soil before being excavated.
I'm not sure when this site was excavated but when we were in Naphlos yesterday, the museum there had good pictures of the archeaologists, and I laughed when I saw the women wearing saddle shoes. That is all it took for me to know they were there in 1952-53, which was when I was in college, and I remember seeing then articles about students going on archeaological "digs" during the summer time.
This Hotel Neda in Ancient Olympia is very nice. The food is very good and there is a lovely pool and outdoor sitting area, where most of the students are at the moment, having been given free time this afternoon. Tomorrow we return to Athens and next we will be going north towards Thessalonica I expect.
I have enjoyed seeing the Pelapponese and the fertile farmland particularly along the lower plains near the water. Lots of olive trees. Gabriella says if one sees no olive trees that means, in that particular area, it must get cold enough to frost, otherwise olive trees grow everywhere in Greece. It has rained more on this trip than on all of my other visits combined. We have experienced short thunderstorms on several occasions. The local people tell us this much rain in June is unusual.
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
A High Point - Mycenae
I am writing this in Tolo, a tourist spot on the Ionian Sea. I have a room with balcony overlooking the water; we all needed a respite from Athens' frantic pace. Today we have a "free" day to do what we wish. I think I will not be doing much walking, except maybe to find a hat - I left mine somewhere at Epidauros.
Yesterday we visited the "pre-historic" site of Ancient Mycenae. I wondered why "pre" historic and was told history in Greece, before the ruins of Mycenae were discovered in the 19th century, only went back to about 900 BC. The Myceneans occupied the mountain fortress and the surrounding land as early as 1500 - 1300- BC. No one knows where they came from. They had quite a sophisticated civilization, forging weapons, making pottery, building dome shaped tombs, (without benefit of the Grecian or Roman arch). They offset the large building blocks slightly so the circular construction leaned slightly inward and took a "beehive" shape. They used a triangle above the door to take the load off the door frame, If one whispers against the wall on one side of the huge dome, a person with their ear next to the wall 40 feet opposite can hear what is said.
The fortress was completely walled and the top of the mountain provided a fantastic 120 degree view. It was never taken by force. They had laid underground pipes from a spring on an adjacent hillside and water drained into a cistern which was then accessed by a staircase inside the walls, so under siege they never ran out of water.
The wind blew fiercely when we were there which made climbing to the top difficult but the view was worth it. This was a high point of my trip, both literally and rhetorically.
Yesterday we visited the "pre-historic" site of Ancient Mycenae. I wondered why "pre" historic and was told history in Greece, before the ruins of Mycenae were discovered in the 19th century, only went back to about 900 BC. The Myceneans occupied the mountain fortress and the surrounding land as early as 1500 - 1300- BC. No one knows where they came from. They had quite a sophisticated civilization, forging weapons, making pottery, building dome shaped tombs, (without benefit of the Grecian or Roman arch). They offset the large building blocks slightly so the circular construction leaned slightly inward and took a "beehive" shape. They used a triangle above the door to take the load off the door frame, If one whispers against the wall on one side of the huge dome, a person with their ear next to the wall 40 feet opposite can hear what is said.
The fortress was completely walled and the top of the mountain provided a fantastic 120 degree view. It was never taken by force. They had laid underground pipes from a spring on an adjacent hillside and water drained into a cistern which was then accessed by a staircase inside the walls, so under siege they never ran out of water.
The wind blew fiercely when we were there which made climbing to the top difficult but the view was worth it. This was a high point of my trip, both literally and rhetorically.
Saturday, June 7, 2014
In Aristotle's Footsteps
It was not an easy day. My stomach was a little"off" this morning and on top of that, we had not been walking long when the band-aid on my toe came off and I had not brought another with me. We walk at such a fast pace it is hard to find a drugstore and stop because one would never catch up. If I knew where we were going, I might chance it, but felt I had better stay with the group.
We visited the War Museum, the Byzantine Museum, the temple of Olympia Zeus, where Nikos, a friend of Dr.Dewey's joined us. Nikos teaches the equivalent of junior-high in Athens and he added many tidbits of information as well as guiding us in where to eat lunch. The last visit of the day was to the Lyceum where Aristotle walked and discoursed with others. So we walked around the rectangle and took pictures. A lovely vista.
By then we were all exhausted and hot in spite of the fact that it had rained today.Yet some had to go shopping as they did not think they had appropriate clothes to go out this evening to a Greek bar to see Latin dancing. No dancing for me. My stomach is feeling better. As soon as I got back to the hotel, I got on my swimsuit and got in the small pool on the rooftop. It was cold but it really hit the spot. Now that I am refreshed and changed I am hungry and ready to eat. But no dancing for me. Greek evening entertainment does not start until 11 pm and by that time I will be asleep!
We visited the War Museum, the Byzantine Museum, the temple of Olympia Zeus, where Nikos, a friend of Dr.Dewey's joined us. Nikos teaches the equivalent of junior-high in Athens and he added many tidbits of information as well as guiding us in where to eat lunch. The last visit of the day was to the Lyceum where Aristotle walked and discoursed with others. So we walked around the rectangle and took pictures. A lovely vista.
By then we were all exhausted and hot in spite of the fact that it had rained today.Yet some had to go shopping as they did not think they had appropriate clothes to go out this evening to a Greek bar to see Latin dancing. No dancing for me. My stomach is feeling better. As soon as I got back to the hotel, I got on my swimsuit and got in the small pool on the rooftop. It was cold but it really hit the spot. Now that I am refreshed and changed I am hungry and ready to eat. But no dancing for me. Greek evening entertainment does not start until 11 pm and by that time I will be asleep!
Friday, June 6, 2014
Sixth Day in Athens
Yesterday we visited Monastiraki where we were encouraged to check out certain areas of shops for souvenirs for best prices and sometimes discounts from shopkeepers (katastimacharese) who know Dr. Byrne and Dr. Dewey from previous student tours. Both of them are good about chatting up the shopkeepers.
I looked at an icon that the shopkeeper would have sold me for 20% off but it still was too much and I was not sure I wanted to carry it home to add to my collection awaiting me there. I haven't done much shopping - haven't had time. I tried to call the Kostoulas family but no luck so far.
Late afternoon yesterday I sat in on Dr. Dewey's Theology and Greek classes for the students (remember they are getting class credit for this tour) and found them very interesting. Today he and half the group have gone on an island cruise for the day. Dr. Byrne and five of us went to a museum in the Port of Pireas. After lunch where we were serenaded by a street entertainer, the students went to the Maritime Museum and Dr. Byrne and I returned to our hotel to "crash". I revived after a little while to do this blog and in a couple hours I will go swimming in the rooftop pool. We are here two more days and then we move on to Tolo.
I looked at an icon that the shopkeeper would have sold me for 20% off but it still was too much and I was not sure I wanted to carry it home to add to my collection awaiting me there. I haven't done much shopping - haven't had time. I tried to call the Kostoulas family but no luck so far.
Late afternoon yesterday I sat in on Dr. Dewey's Theology and Greek classes for the students (remember they are getting class credit for this tour) and found them very interesting. Today he and half the group have gone on an island cruise for the day. Dr. Byrne and five of us went to a museum in the Port of Pireas. After lunch where we were serenaded by a street entertainer, the students went to the Maritime Museum and Dr. Byrne and I returned to our hotel to "crash". I revived after a little while to do this blog and in a couple hours I will go swimming in the rooftop pool. We are here two more days and then we move on to Tolo.
Wednesday, June 4, 2014
Learning On Site
The weather was threatening rain, so we did not attempt climbing the Acropolis on Tuesday. Instead we visited the National Archealogy Museum, the Greek and Roman agora ruins, Hadrian's Library. and watched the changing of the guard at the Parliament building. In the evening we all congregated on the roof of the hotel for lots of laughter and showing off of tattoos (not mine) and sharing favorite music played on a computer. I had a great discussion with Dr. Dewey about a whole spectrum of subjects from the failure of the Greeks to preserve their artifacts in early years before they were carted off by the western Europeans, to how people choose when to die and the role models we have who lived full, creative lives nearly to the time they died.
Yesterday morning (Wed.) it looked like it might clear, so we delayed our departure, gathered in a meeting room to hear presentations by the students. Each student prepares 7 fifteen minute presentations on some subject related to our trip to Greece. We heard 4 of them and by then, the sky had cleared some, so we tackled the Acropolis. It was a tough climb but we stopped a few times for more students to make their presentations about what we were seeing, the Theater of Dionysis, the Stoa, the Erechtheon, and so forth. Nothing like actually walking on and seeing what you are talking about!
A word about our fearless leaders. Dr. Shannon Byrne, Classics professor, does an excellent job of keeping things moving. She walks really fast; even the students have difficulty keeping up with her. She is also a great fund of information, supplementing the student reports and helping to give them perspective particularly when talking about Greek mythology, which was always a really foggy subject for me. She is really down-to-earth, and can talk their language. She often buys treats (fruit, drinks, extras) for the student group.
Dr. Art Dewey, History & Theology professor, usually brings up the rear, corralling and seeing to any stragglers in the group so we don't get lost. He adds historical information related to relics and statues we see in the museums. He also meets individually with students related to their study goals. They make a good team.
Lots of student groups at this hotel. Breakfast room is full from 6:30 until 9. I saw one girl with full backpack, including her bedroll, leaving the dining room this morning, so this is obviously a favorite staying spot for backpackers as well. Many groups come through: some go on bus tours. Us: we walk! My calves are sore, but not painfully, and I sure don't have any trouble sleeping!
Yesterday morning (Wed.) it looked like it might clear, so we delayed our departure, gathered in a meeting room to hear presentations by the students. Each student prepares 7 fifteen minute presentations on some subject related to our trip to Greece. We heard 4 of them and by then, the sky had cleared some, so we tackled the Acropolis. It was a tough climb but we stopped a few times for more students to make their presentations about what we were seeing, the Theater of Dionysis, the Stoa, the Erechtheon, and so forth. Nothing like actually walking on and seeing what you are talking about!
A word about our fearless leaders. Dr. Shannon Byrne, Classics professor, does an excellent job of keeping things moving. She walks really fast; even the students have difficulty keeping up with her. She is also a great fund of information, supplementing the student reports and helping to give them perspective particularly when talking about Greek mythology, which was always a really foggy subject for me. She is really down-to-earth, and can talk their language. She often buys treats (fruit, drinks, extras) for the student group.
Dr. Art Dewey, History & Theology professor, usually brings up the rear, corralling and seeing to any stragglers in the group so we don't get lost. He adds historical information related to relics and statues we see in the museums. He also meets individually with students related to their study goals. They make a good team.
Lots of student groups at this hotel. Breakfast room is full from 6:30 until 9. I saw one girl with full backpack, including her bedroll, leaving the dining room this morning, so this is obviously a favorite staying spot for backpackers as well. Many groups come through: some go on bus tours. Us: we walk! My calves are sore, but not painfully, and I sure don't have any trouble sleeping!
Monday, June 2, 2014
Third Highest Hill in Athens
The 10 hour plane ride from Philadelphia was not the most comfortable - it never is. We all tried to get some sleep with varying degrees of success. I managed 3 hour-long segments and tried various positions buttressed by 2 airline pillows and a travel pillow for my neck.
We got euros from the airport ATM and Dimitri, holding a sign that read Xavier group, shepherded us aboard a bus for the 45 minute ride to this Candia Hotel (now sporting a new Best Western sign) where XU has been bringing its students for several years. Here, away from the more touristy areas, Dr. Shannon Byrne gave us an orientation tour of our surroundings; the grocery, the laundromat, the local bar, signposts to help us get around. Then we walked a few blocks to the metro station where we received our metro passes, good for one week. Like a good tour leader, she gave us a number as she handed out our passes. This is for counting off, in Greek, when collecting the group before leaving a venue, to be sure she has us all in tow. My number is 14, dekatessura. Dr. Dewey is last, number 15.
Then she explained to us that she knew we were tired but we should try not to sleep until after dinner at 8:00, to avoid jet lag. And just to help us stay awake she said we'd go on a little walk around the base of the Acropolis. So, we took the metro a few stops and then walked and walked and walked. She wasn't kidding. She was not going to give us a chance to sleep. We saw Socrates'prison, Mars Hill and when we thought we'd had enough, we climbed to see the monument to Pilopappas on top of the third highest hill in Athens. The view was spectacular. I said to Dr. Dewey, fellow student in my Greek class, that no postcard or picture ever does it justice. Each time one sees the Acropolis it stops you- you just can't avoid it. It's a fantastic view. We took the obligatory group picture there. We will climb up to the Parthenon later this week.
We all dragged off to bed at 9:00. My writing in my journal (all the students have to keep one) kept getting smaller and smaller and finally my pen just wandered off the page. I was asleep the instant my head hit the pillow. It was a very long day -but we avoided jet lag! I was down for breakfast at 7 am this morning.
We got euros from the airport ATM and Dimitri, holding a sign that read Xavier group, shepherded us aboard a bus for the 45 minute ride to this Candia Hotel (now sporting a new Best Western sign) where XU has been bringing its students for several years. Here, away from the more touristy areas, Dr. Shannon Byrne gave us an orientation tour of our surroundings; the grocery, the laundromat, the local bar, signposts to help us get around. Then we walked a few blocks to the metro station where we received our metro passes, good for one week. Like a good tour leader, she gave us a number as she handed out our passes. This is for counting off, in Greek, when collecting the group before leaving a venue, to be sure she has us all in tow. My number is 14, dekatessura. Dr. Dewey is last, number 15.
Then she explained to us that she knew we were tired but we should try not to sleep until after dinner at 8:00, to avoid jet lag. And just to help us stay awake she said we'd go on a little walk around the base of the Acropolis. So, we took the metro a few stops and then walked and walked and walked. She wasn't kidding. She was not going to give us a chance to sleep. We saw Socrates'prison, Mars Hill and when we thought we'd had enough, we climbed to see the monument to Pilopappas on top of the third highest hill in Athens. The view was spectacular. I said to Dr. Dewey, fellow student in my Greek class, that no postcard or picture ever does it justice. Each time one sees the Acropolis it stops you- you just can't avoid it. It's a fantastic view. We took the obligatory group picture there. We will climb up to the Parthenon later this week.
We all dragged off to bed at 9:00. My writing in my journal (all the students have to keep one) kept getting smaller and smaller and finally my pen just wandered off the page. I was asleep the instant my head hit the pillow. It was a very long day -but we avoided jet lag! I was down for breakfast at 7 am this morning.
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