A Wonderful Day!

How do I begin to tell you about yesterday? Start at the beginning I guess. In the morning Dr. Dewey (Art) and his Greek teacher friend, Nikos, and I went to the monastery in Daphni. This monastery is one of two sites in Greece renowned for its mosaics. Unfortunately it was badly damaged by earthquake within the last ten years and they are in the process of repairing it. Because of all the scaffolding we were allowed to climb only part way up to see them but they showed us first a video of the mosaics as they were. I was amazed, and when we DID climb the stairs and I saw the mosaic of Jesus' birth complete with angel, babe in the manger, Joseph and Mary and a cow and a donkey looking on, it was so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. If I ever get to Athens again I will definitely return to Daphni. They hope to have the work finished in two years. There must be at least 15 huge mosaics on the walls and ceiling of this monastery.

Outside Nikos showed us the mouralou (sp?) tree that bears purple and white berries similar to our blackberries but sweeter. This is also the tree whose leaves silkworms eat and the tree and the worm eggs were brought from China to start the silk industry here for trade. The leaves of the next tree over (don't know the name) has a pungent but not unpleasant smell and is used by cooks as a natural insect repellent for their food.

Then we took a bus back to Athens central for Nikos to take us to a traditional taverna (opos tragmata echie = as things were). If you didn't know it was there, you'd walk right by. Seeing the cellar doors open you might assume a delivery was being made, but if you went down the steps (watch your head!) you find yourself in a wine cellar/taverna. Huge barrels of wine line one wall and 8 - 10 tables are set up in the rest of the cellar. Things are simple. Wine from a barrel comes with the meal without asking. White paper goes on the table. Bowls of whatever you order are brought; no plates, just fork and spoon for each person - one eats from the communal bowls. Wonderful bread is brought in half loaves and you break off what you want. Use the bread to sop up the juices - no bread spread needed. We ordered Greek salad, a cooked vegetable melage and had only one choice, which of two fish we wanted. We chose "gropa" a small grilled fish that just fell away from its bones. We demolished it all. No napkins. They just take the dishes and utensils and wrap all else up in the paper "tablecloth" and the table is ready for the next customer. This family has had this place since 1880.

Next Nikos took us a few blocks to a small opening off the street barely large enough for a man to get through. It opened up into a space about 15 ft. wide by 60 ft. long and there we had Greek coffee. When we looked up, we could see very old ramshackle  houses, no longer occupied, and even a rickety footbridge that went between the houses. Talk about atmosphere! There was even the typical long-legged, long-bodied Greek cat.

From there we walked back toward Omonia (tourist central) passing a large fish market, a "euro" store (Greek Dollar store) and shops that sold all kinds of household needs; pots and pans, spices kept in wooden cupboards to prevent them picking up street smells, rugs, housedresses. Nikos said his father walked a long ways (this was before the Metro) to shop there for the week because it is cheaper there.

We said goodbye to Nikos and met Kiki, our language teacher, who was in Greece with her family and talked with her for an hour. She was on her way to the dentist. Another American seeking out Greece's excellent health care. By the time we returned to the hotel I was happy to shed my clothes and cool off in my room.

In the evening I was invited to join Dr. Byrne and Dr. Dewey to go to dinner with their friend, George. We had a wonderful meal about 10:30 (pretty typical time for Greeks to go out) at a different tavera on a quiet residential street near Haidari and not far from the night clubs where the group went to see the Latin dancing.
After wine and more wonderful food, we took a cab back to the hotel. We all remarked that this particular cab driver obviously knew the city well. Without hesitation he chose back streets one after another and avoided the heavily trafficked main streets. I was tired. By this time it was 12:30. But what a great day!
Tonight the students return from Santorini and we will be on our way to Thessaloniki tomorrow.